Plan to paint your interior one room at a time. Painting becomes a favorite project when the results are clean, crisp and pleasantly transformative. Preparation is important and when done properly, will help ensure successful results. Begin by removing all furniture from the room, with the exception of any pieces too heavy or awkward to move. Next use canvas or plastic tarps to cover the remaining pieces all the way to the floor. Remove window treatments, mirrors and art work and, after temporarily turning off the electricity to the room, carefully remove light fixtures, and outlet and switch covers. An alternative to removing light fixtures is to cover them with a plastic bag, along with door knobs.

Cover the floor with canvas tarps and newspapers. Put on protective gear such as goggles and a hat to prevent dust and debris from falling in your eyes, and using a new broom or a stiff duster with a long extension handle, sweep all dust and cobwebs from the ceiling, beams and walls. As you clean, use a scraper to scrape off any loose or peeling paint. Wipe casings and trim with a sponge or rag soaked with hot water and household cleaner. (Many sources call for walls and casings to be washed with TSP but we prefer to avoid the use of chemicals unless the grime--such as grease or smoke, etc.--can't otherwise be removed.) Carefully inspect the surfaces of the ceilings and walls (beams, too, if you plan to paint them) noting any stains in the paint or pits and cracks in the surface. Stains must be primed or they will leech through your new paint.

How to repair dry wall

All imperfections such as holes, cracks and pits, even the smallest ones, must be properly prepped to ensure that your paint job is not marred. Use a lightweight patching compound to fill these, leveling the surface with your putty knife promptly after applying the compound. The compound will shrink as it dries so you may need to repeat this procedure several times. When you have a sufficient build-up of compound so that it is raised slightly above the surface level, and completely dry, sand it until it is smooth and level with the surace. Sand a tiny hole or crack with a fine grade of sand paper. For a larger hole or crack, plan on several applications of compound, using a course sand paper for the first few sandings and a fine grade of sand paper for the final one or two applications. A palm sander can speed things along but don't get carried away--it could quickly erode your dry wall. In addition to holes and cracks be sure to patch any cracks between walls and casings or trim, particularly if new wood has been installed. Caulk the entire length of the wood on one or both sides (only the bottom side is necessary in the case of crown molding, for example) to create a smooth unified appearance in your paint, even if the trim piece will be painted a different color; otherwise an unsightly black line will interrupt the continuity of your paint. While you are waiting for your compound to dry begin masking using blue or green painter's tape. Using a light touch and uniform pressure, adhere the tape carefully along the line your are masking, making certain that it is straight before pressing it into place. If you are not satisfied that your line is straight, the tape can be lifted and easily re-adhered.

Use primer on all areas of bare wood, caulking compound or new dry wall. Apply a full coat of primer if you have large areas of new dry wall or plan to use flat paint over a paint that has sheen. Use a stain-blocking primer if you have a stain bleeding through your existing paint. Use a full coat of primer if you are covering a dark-colored paint with a lighter color; the reverse may also require a full coat of primer.